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This delightful pineapple ring sponge is one of my few positive memories of school dinners (which I now all realize focus on foods consumed with custard). Unlike the gypsy tart, which appears to have been created with the express purpose of filling Kent school pupils at minimal cost, the upside-down tart has its roots in medieval Chinese cakes, and sophisticated French relatives in the form of the gateau renversi, which evolved into the tart tatten.
However, pineapples were too scarce and expensive to waste in such pans—much better to just rent one to show off to your friends—until James Dole's Hawaiian Pineapple Company decided to put it in cans and market it to the public through the medium. of an upside-down cake. This old idea became hotter in 1926, and as America progresses, Britain eventually follows; As Nigel Slater recalls, the upside-down pineapple cake was "as sexy as the cake you got at Wolverhampton in the '60s," while Jamie Oliver was singing about the version he made at his elementary school in Essex two decades later.
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